Day 3 { may 28th 2002 }
“Natural beauty ”
This day is about the most beautiful woman on earth; mother nature. But she can be a bitch as well; Nijmegen comes to the rescue once again! I paddle through lush forests, gently rolling hills and end up next to an army-BBQ.
Slept for 10 hours... Early in the morning, the owner of the small ‘Vaude’ tent next to me has arrived. He (a die-hard backpacker) is most interested in my Condor and asks all sorts of questions. When he hears about my goal, he enthousiastically takes two hefty volumes of the ADAC camping guide out of his tent. He starts searching for decent campings in Italy. I see no point in that, but he means well, so I let him. After having exchanged some hints and ideas, I reluctantly leave the ‘Bundy’ camping around half past 10.
“...the climbing is done in almost complete silence”
According to my map, the Hoge Venen will be entered today. It’s the highest part of the Ardennes in Belgium and renowned for it’s natural beauty. How right they are; mother nature is definitely the most beautiful woman on earth. Thick dense forests against steep hills,
bathing in sunshine. It improves my mood, and revitalises my ‘drive’ to achieve the ultimate goal. After NOT having crossed the huge dam (which I should have...) I have to climb 2 or 3 kilometers extra to get ‘on the road’ again. But the climbing is done in almost perfect silence; no traffic.
This, combined with a beautiful view of a sizable lake and the sun playing with the shadow in between the trees on the slopes,
is quite an experience.
In Ternell, a cook in a small restaurant at the highest point of the Hoge Venen, almost refuses to prepare me a children’s meal. “You are an adult, but... I will make an exception”.
Huh, I am the biggest kid in the world...
“...my shoes sink away in the muddy ground”
Later on, I take a wrong turn in the middle of a forest. The older edition of the travel guide is unclear about this.
It leads me to a small unpaved path
directly into a heavily wooded area. It should lead upwards after a while... NOT. Even a mountainbiker would have a hard time
negotiating this terrain.
Madness!
Here I am, ploughing a 50 kilo recumbent plus luggage through the woods, while my shoes sink away in the muddy ground and I
have a hard time keeping the Condor level because of all the tree roots.
On my left hand side, there is this 'wall' of sand, grass and rocks. Equally encouraging. And then the path ends, and the only option that remains is a 35 degrees steep slope leading upwards, cluttered with rocks and grass! I have to choose the lesser of two evil; go back or upwards. Fortunately, Matt and Tini arrive on the scene (two older backpackers I passed about 5 minutes ago). Matt helps me pushing the Condor up the hill, after I hauled the bags to the top first. There is a paved road of good quality, which might lead in the right direction...
“...the overcast sky remains that day”
After wiping the dirt of the wheels, I proceed. It is the right road, for I see direction signs and some pointers about 2 miles
further on as described in my booklet.
10 Minutes later, I have to negotiate very rocky terrain, which forces me to walk for about a mile. This causes some, well, to put it mildly, frustration.
Later on, the weather changes. Thick grey clouds gather above my head and are relentlessly being pushed forward by a strong wind.
Time to put on my windstopper (or raincoat?).
My fear for a hefty ‘outdoor shower’ is not justified. It does look threatening, but it stays dry.
The overcast sky remains for the rest of the day though.
“A push-over”
Did some shopping at a supermarket. When I returned, my Condor was flat on the ground once more. I apparently forgot to remove the sign ‘this bicycle looks different, please push over’.
I put up my tent at a camping in Worriken (Bütgenbach), overlooking a lake. Lovely place. That’s what I
like about the Ardennes; the vast forests, grassy pastures dotted with villages and hedges and the occasional lake.
When cycling here, you have the feeling to be ‘enclosed’ by nature, you do not have the abundant panoramic views
like the ones I would encounter in Lotharingen. But mind you, it is still awe inspiring.
“Ze Germans”
Anyway. Just one meter to the right of me, a platoon of German soldiers have erected a huge army tent and a communication mast. They even have their own BBQ. Ahhh...that smell. I would give 20 euro’s for a couple of their sausages. Should not complain though...brought some lovely tasting meat with me.
I fear the worst for the night. Where are my ear-plugs? No delightful noctural sounds this time... After a shower, I hit the sack, wondering what will happen tomorrow. Goodnight.
